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- Where else can Shield-Crete™ Epoxy be used besides garages?
- Shield-Crete® is also great for basement floors, laundry room floors, storage areas, patios or landings (although the UV inhibitors are minimal in this product, the color will fade quickly in sun-drenched areas) This has been applied to commercial and warehouse floors, schools, locker rooms, and barn floors. Shield-Crete® can be applied to wood also, such as porches.
- Should I stir the Deco-flakes in with the epoxy?
- No! The Deco-flakes should be broadcast onto the wet epoxy as soon as possible. Work in small sections of 4 to 6 feet in area, and toss the flakes high into the air so they fall evenly like snowflakes onto the wet epoxy. You shouldn't wait more than 30 minutes to toss the flakes, otherwise the Shield-Crete® may have already begun to dry and the flakes may not adhere as well as intended.
- How can I keep my floor, patio, pool deck, garage etc. from being slippery?
H & C recommends Sharkgrip® Slip Resistant Additive for all surfaces where slipping is a concern. Pool decks and garage floors are especially susceptible to slipping. Simply stir Sharkgrip® Slip Resistant Additive to any sealer or stain, it stays suspended in the coating, but occasional stirring is recommended. SharkGrip® may make a gloss finish a bit duller, so keep that in mind. Shield-Crete® kits have a packet of anti-slip aggregate included; simply stir this into the mixture once the two components have been combined.
- Why does Shield-Crete® not require acid etching while most other epoxies do?
Shield-Crete® Epoxy Concrete Garage Floor Coating is an industrial strength epoxy available to consumers. It is the result of a modified epoxy resin which is easy to use.
If the garage floor is highly troweled and almost shiny, then etching may be necessary. Epoxies need to "bite" into the surface; if the surface isn't porous the epoxy may peel. Chemicals and parafins from tires can leave a waxy film on garage floors over time which creates a non-porous surface which may require at least sanding. This sanding can be done with an electric sander/buffer with a medium abrasive pad or by hand sanding the areas with medium grit sand paper. Once this is complete, follow the instructions in the kit for cleaning/degreasing.
- What causes bubbling of a sealer or stain, and what can I do to prevent and/or repair it?
1. In most cases moisture is the cause of bubbling of a solid color concrete stain or sealer. Always allow 24 hours of dry weather after rain before application.
2. Sometimes over application of solvent-based products can cause bubbling as well. Two thin coats is ideal versus one thick coat.
3. If the concrete is too hot at the time of application this can cause bubbling too. Do not apply if the surface temperature is over 100°F.
Solving the bubble issue:
For solvent based products, sand with a medium grit paper to knock down the bubbles (do not clean off sanding dust) then roll out a thin coat of xylene to re-wet the material.
For water based products, sand using a medium grip (clean off sanding dust) then apply a new coat to cover the damaged areas.
- What's the difference between Concrete Sealer Clear Gloss and H & C's® Wet Look Sealer?
Both products can be applied over our solid color stains or sealers or on bare concrete, but the Wet Look Sealer is water-based and the Concrete Sealer Clear Gloss is oil/solvent-based. Just like paint, remember water over water-based and solvent over solvent-based. Mixing the two can lead to product or project failure.
For inclined areas, or projects where slipping is a concern, be sure to add SharkGrip™ Slip Resistant Additive to the final coat.
- I have a freshly poured concrete driveway and patio, how long do I need to wait until I can seal it?
- Ideally wait at least 28 to 45 days after the concrete is poured. Although the concrete looks and feels ready to coat, it isn't. Concrete needs to "cure" and any coatings put down prematurely will most likely fail in one way, shape or form.
- Do I have to remove old coatings before I apply Shield-Crete®?
- Yes. Shield-Crete® will bond to the old coating if one is present, but only to the coating, not the concrete. If the old coating is pulling away from the concrete, the Shield-Crete® will pull away as well. Scraping or grinding off of the coating is necessary, then proceed with normal surface preparation per the instruction sheet.
- What coatings can I put over the Resurfacer/Knockdown Texture Systems?
- H & C's® Concrete Sealer Solid Color Solvent-based as well as Concrete Stain Solid Color Water-based are both suitable topcoats over the knockdown products. Also, both products are available in dozens of colors.
- What are VOC's, and why can't I get solvent-based products in my state?
- VOC stands for Volatile Organic Compounds. There are some areas of the United States where solvent-based products cannot be sold (let alone applied). Most of the northeast area of the United States, and California to name a few. Typically water-based products like H & C® Concrete Stain Solid Color Water-based are great alternatives to the solvent-based products with less VOC's and low odor.
- How can I tell if my surface had a clear sealer applied to it in the past?
- Simply perform the water-test: sprinkle water in a few places and see if it beads up. If it beads, there is some kind of sealer on your surface that should be removed. If it penetrates into the concrete, you have a porous, bare surface.
- Should I acid etch prior to acid staining?
No, acid ETCHING will take away from the reaction of the acid stain which could result in less color penetration. There is a large difference between acid 'etching' and staining. Etching is something you do prior to putting down a sealer or other stain. "Acid Etching" is a surface prep product or step.
While Acid "STAINING" can sometimes be called Acid "Etching" incorrectly, do not be confused by these semantic errors. The acid staining "etches" into the concrete creating a permanent bond, which is where this confusion comes in.
- Will the acid stain react with the entire surface of the concrete?
- In most cases, the reactive ingredient in the concrete - hydrated calcium (lime) - is not displaced evenly when the concrete is finished. As a result, the acid reaction will naturally leave areas of exposed, bare concrete which may look "bald." The amount of "balding" will depend greatly on how the concrete is finished and the concentration of the acid stain mixture. If you or your customer chooses a color that requires heavy dilution, keep this in mind.
- What clear coats can go over Infusion™ Acid Stain?
- Any clear coat can go over the the top of Infusion™ Reactive Acid Stain, as long as the stain has been neutralized and the residue has been removed. Infusion™ offers a water-based and solvent-based clear topcoat, as well as a floor finish for interior projects.
- What is the best method of application for the Infusion® Industrial Floor Finish?
- While the Industrial Floor Finish may be applied by brush, roller or lambswool applicator, the best method is to apply it with a synthetic cotton-rayon mop. This applicator maximizes even coverage of material and produces a highly consistent sheen build.
- How do I keep my acid stained floor looking new?
Neutral-based cleaners are perfect for daily floor care of acid stained floors (regardless of the topcoat). Do NOT use ammonia-based cleaners on a daily basis, those will strip a sealer and color.
For daily maintenance use a solution of 4-8 ounces of cleaner per gallon of water. Apply with a damp mop. For heavily soiled areas, a solution of up to 16 ounces per gallon of water is acceptable.
To remove black heel or scuff marks dilute a neutral cleaner as described above and use it in a trigger sprayer with a damp cloth.
However, annual stripping of H & C® Industrial Floor Finish should be done using an ammoniated cleaner. After the old finish is removed apply 2-3 coats of the floor finish.
*Note, the Industrial Floor Finish can only be used on interior surfaces.
- How do I dispose of the Infusion™ residue?
- It all depends on your local municipalities disposal requirements. It is corrosive, however, so you'll have to research that prior to beginning installation. The county's website should have the information you need.
- What is the difference in look between a water-based and a solvent-based sealer?
When referring to acid staining, solvent-based sealers tend to make the colors beneath them much bolder, darker and deeper. While the water-based sealers will not have that effect on the colors' final appearance.
This is why it is so crucial to do a sample test area WITH THE SEALER to be sure the customer approves that final color and appearance.
- Do you have coatings for stamped concrete?
Most stamped concrete will require special preparation to allow a stain or a clear coating to adhere. Bond breakers (or release agents) may be present after stamping which will require chemical removal. All coatings need something to adhere to, if the release agent is present, the coating will peel.
Once removed, if the project is a driveway, we suggest using the Concrete Sealer Solid Color Solvent-based products. If the project is a patio or pool deck, we suggest H & C® Concrete Stain Solid Color Water-based products.
- How deep does the acid stain react through the concrete surface?
- Concrete thickness can vary from 1/4 inch to over 3 feet. However, depending on the finish (how it was troweled) and porosity of the concrete surface, the penetration of the acid reaction may be only 1/16 inch to 3/16 inch. In time, if the surface is not maintained, the floor finish, sealer and color can be worn off exposing bare concrete areas.
